Do you want to know how to paddle through breaking waves and stay on your feet? Read these tips!
1.When approaching a wave always hit it straight on (nose first) hitting the wave side on will knock you straight off.
2. Make sure you have plenty of forward momentum when approaching the wave, momentum is stability. when you have plenty of forward momentum and the correct body weight transfer the nose of the board will go under/through the white water and pop you out on the back of the wave.
3.lower your centre of gravity by bending your knees. Your upper body should be leaning slightly forward as to focus your body weight toward the nose of the board. If you lean back, the nose of the board will lift and go over the top of the white water bouncing the nose up and throwing you off the back of the board everytime!
4. When you pop up on the back of the wave, slap your paddle on the water to your side and lean on it to gain stability if needed. This is called a bracing stroke. Commence your stroke again ASAP as momentum is stability.
5. MOST IMPORTANT TIP! Be aggressive! Hit the wave with speed and confidence. If you hesitate you will fall.
If you can put all of these tips together and apply them you will be amazed at how easy paddling out at your local break can be. Sure you will fall a few times but remember "no pain no gain".